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Online Builders Manual
The making of the Monarch Wing
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The kits supplies the "D" tube and here Don has mounted it in the wing alignment jigs. The patterns for these are in your plans sheet 4 and 5. Make sure everything is level and stable. Notice the bricks in the photo Photo W10 |
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| This is the setup I used to make the wings. I screwed the dtube holders to the floor. In this picture I'm just about ready to epoxy (epoxy and cotton flox) down the dtube stiffners.
Align the Dtubes carefully and take your time. The holders should be 90 degrees to the floor or your point of reference in both directions. I also just spliced the trailing edge spar so that I could get an idea of how the ribs went in.. I was lacking my machine tools when I did it but a sharp chisel and 80 grit sandpaper on a flat block worked fine. The actual length of the rear spar was 20' 2" on my wing , the palns say 20' 3 3/4" . I'll get Jim to check that out. What ever the answer, everything fit just fine with those dimensions except the length.
Note the windrose off to the right side of the photo.-mat |
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| This is how I clamped the dtube to adjust for small differences between the two ends. I used a small dremell tool (battery operated) with a sanding tube for a lot of the fitting.... I also used it with a small bit to cut the slots for the rear dtube. Made everything very easy.
I set rib #1 in incorrectly in this picture, the top is on the curved side of the dtube and the small airleron pushrod cutout outlined should be on the top. Once you have the dtubes aligned as best as possible, then afix the doubler hardwood block at the root bottom foreward side of the rear spar. You will have thee holes to drill , make sure you have the correct metal fittings as there is a fore and aft one. I put an An5 bolt in the rear spar fittings to keep them in the correct place as I drilled the holes. Remember to mark on the bottom side of the rear spar at the root as the right angle -this is where the metal fitting attaches. For the exact location of the rear spar you must have this metal fitting attached. The distance on the plans between the two wing wing fittings says 38 1/2"... but check your fuselage for any slight differences... mine was 38 5/8" so I adjusted rear spar height fitting to suit my fuselage. Align the ribs with the rear spar in. Ribs 1, 11 and 19 will define the rear spar location. Check that location with the lofting then make all the other ribs conform. All ribs should be a 90 degrees to each other and your reference.
-mat |
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| Here the Ribs #1, 11 and 19 are epoxied to the D tube. Make sure they are 90 degrees at all times!! Photo W11 |
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| Threading the rear spar into the ribs.Photo W12 |  |
| Look closely at the trailing edge spar... the 3/8 x 5/8 piece lays on top of the spar (not in this photo)... glued in after the spar is placed in with the long side horizontal to the chord... the wing section just below shows this... but it is rather a small view on the plans.
Note the diagram and the execution in the photo: this is important and frequently not well understood.
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| This was my method for gluing on the filler strips (see above) over the rear spar. I used lots of tape! |  |
| Note the gusset material on both sides of the rear spar at the metal fittings. |  |
| The rear spar wing fitting from inside the wing. |  |
| The drag wire comporession strut with the nico fitting. |  |
| Compression strut fitting at D tube. note the wood shim below the fitting, this can be varied in height to make the strut fit well. |  |
| Aileron comporession strut, at rear spar. |  |
| Aileron compression strut and aileron pushrod. Note I cut a section of the block out to get a better fit. |  |
| Note the many clothes pegs used as clamps on the rear spar to make sure of the correct spacing and at 90 degrees to the "D" tube. Photo W13 |
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| The mostly completed wing. Mar 1999. I just taped a board across the tips of the 3 middle ribs. I will put on the proper trailing edge one once the elevator and aileron have been installed. The spoiler is also missing in this photo. |  |
| Note how the spoiler goes together. The hinge is a right angles. A flat board aids in the glueup. |  |
| This is the Adverse Yaw damper added to the wingtip end of the aileron.
The rod end used here is part no MW2 from wicks. You will need four of them. Use 1/8" welding rod for the shaft. Make sure there is enough room for the aileron to move freely. The Adverse Yaw damper shoudl be almost straight back with neutral aileron but when you move it up the damper comes up creating drag as in the picture. |
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| Thsi is the underside of the Adverse Yaw damper. |  |
| OK now the internal wire bracing and a few metal fittings. Here is Don at the root of the wing with his helpers. Photo W14 |  |
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